Day One – I departed about 7:30am, knowing I had a long day ahead of me. It was an uneventful day on the bike albeit a long one. South Dakota is always windy and strong cross winds create challenging miles when riding at the high speed of the interstate. I was surprised to see my bikes computer reporting 45mpg because I am used to getting about 65 MPG. I guess running the engine at 5000 rpm and hauling all my gear reduces it that much. I arrived to Cedar Pass campground in Badlands national park to sour news. The Park Ranger at the main gate reported the campground was full and I would need to travel another 53 miles through the park, at 35 MPH, to go to the other campground on the parks west side. The idea of a few more hours on the bike was not a welcome one. I tucked into the visitor center, grabbed a snack, and asked another ranger about camping. Same news. I jumped back on the bike to head out. Following a hunch I decided to pull though the Cedar Pass Campground anyway, just to see if there was maybe a camp of adventure riders who I could join or an available spot. Third times the charm I guess. The campground attendant was sympathetic to my long day and allowed me to set up a tent in the group campground. It was a windy night but I tied down the tent well and had a nice night’s sleep. The Family from Chicago next to me did not fare as well and all ended up sleeping in their car after the wind blew their tent to pieces.

Day Two – Got suited up and broke the zipper on my motorcycle jacket. I Velcro the top and bottom and leave the zipper in the middle of the coat for the next 15 days. I headed out early and snapped some pictures of Badlands National Park with the morning sun. As I pressed on North to Theodore Roosevelt National Park, I felt a temperature difference of 62 degrees in the morning, to over 100 degrees at mid-day. The open spaces of the Dakota’s were amazing and I had the roads all to myself. I thought I had arrived for the day at my destination but it was only the Painted Valley Visitors Center and not the parks entrance or campground. Another few miles down the road and I secured a spot for the night. I even spotted a few big horn sheep on the ride in. I washed away the heat of the day in the Little Missouri River and spent the evening talking with a fellow adventure rider, Restless Dan. 

Day Three – Despite the heat of the day, the night was cool. Caught the buffalo moving across the plains on my way out of the park. I was reading Stephen Ambrose’s fantastic book, Undaunted Courage. The story of the Lewis and Clark expedition and it was difficult not to feel the weight of their journey and the ghosts of great civilizations who had previously been in the places I passed through. The West is an open expanse with a dense history still palpable on it landscape. I arrived at Lewis and Clark National Forest to a quiet camp. I hiked a bit and showered in the natural waterfall with the place to myself. I took advantage of the quite night and available firewood and made my first fire of the trip. 

Day Four – I shifted gears from heading mostly west and pointed my bike north. The scenery began to pick up as I was winding my way through the foothills of the Rockies. It was great fun riding state hwy 89 around Glacier National park. A road I only had to ride because I overshot my destination and arrived at Saint Mary’s entry point to Glacier about 30 miles North of where I intended to camp at Two Medicine Lake. Still, I was able to secure a spot and still have time for a 4 hour hike. The altitude starts to hit hard as I hiked above tree line. I return to the campground for a sunset (11PM) swim in the river. It’s cold but feels great to be clean. I over do it at the General Store because I was covering up my dehydration with food. I wasn’t able to drink enough water today. As I settle in to my tent for the night, I can’t help but try to drown out the screaming single mother who is threatening to beat her kids if they do not go to sleep. I think about how the moose and beaver feel about this noise. I am harboring thoughts on the type of people who stay at National Parks vs National Forest campgrounds: The Parks have the unrivaled scenery, but with that comes the scene. It makes you question what your goal is when visiting the outdoors. Do you want to take postcard type pictures and see epic mountains or do you want peace and quiet? I reflect on the many native tribes that called this place home before it became a park. The Blackfoot and The Sioux. I marvel at all the options for RV’s and trailers to fit people’s needs and personal style.

Day Five – I am up early and decide to take a big hike to Dawson Pass. The terrain is all through bear country and the altitude is proving difficult for this flat lander. No animals in sight as the temps are unusually warm. I dip in a mountain lake and head back for a late buffalo chili lunch and then a welcome siesta. I make my way into East Glacier for cell service and grab a healthy dinner. I badly needed a few veggies in my diet after 4 days of road food. I had a great Cobb salad with jerk chicken at the Island Grill. I head back to camp and immediately out on another hike hoping to see some large animals. No luck, but I chatted with homie from Louisiana for an hour. We spoke about the National Parks we had visited. We watched beavers float around in the lake. I hike back to camp and take another river bath to wash away the sweat, sunblock, and bug spray away. I was a beautiful evening. Temps dip into the low 50’s.